Holidays in the Tropics

One of the changes I wanted to make this year was to get away from the crass commercial celebration of the holidays in the United States.  I personally despise the two+ months of non-stop hard sell that takes over all aspects of American society. Peace on earth? Can’t find it north of the equator.

I’ve always suspected that less capitalist countries have a more laid back approach and would provide some respite.  Peru has lived up to expectations.  Let’s review…

Which holidays are celebrated?

Let’s be clear, Peru is not a multi-cultural nation despite the “fusion” they boast of in their cuisine. I have seen nary a mention of Hanukkah, Kwanzaa, or even the Winter Solstice.  That’s fine with me — I have it in for all holidays and I don’t find the absence of Festivus or Yule off-putting. 

Christmas is the only holiday that’s visible. However, that visibility doesn’t come close to U.S. levels.  Some places of business, primarily super markets, have made an effort to decorate or even play songs. We’re staying in an apartment complex that put up a tree in the lobby and snow-themed holiday elements along the walkways, and it’s weird.

Frankly, traditional decorations look ridiculous against the backdrop of the tropical desert we live in. Have you ever seen “pine garland” hung near a hibiscus? Stockings hung with care on the outside door? Trees trimmed on balconies? I’m laughing all the way.

How are the holidays celebrated?

According to what I’ve read and heard from the locals we’ve met, families gather on Christmas Eve to go to church (optional) and start feasting at midnight.  Fireworks are involved.  In the the morning, the kids might get a present or two.  The rest of the day is spent sleeping it all off. 

The other big thing that’s absolutely required for a blow-out celebration is Panetón. I don’t understand why fruit-laced bread is such a huge thing in a country with such a profound sweet tooth, but it is. Seriously, there are much sweeter treats out there, why bread? I’m shaking my head.

And Peruvians don’t bake their own. Oh, no. They buy it in huge quantities to stuff themselves silly. Grocery stores have multiple aisles and end-caps dedicated to nothing but the sale of this treat. It’s the day’s Rubik’s Cube, Beanie Baby, and Cabbage Patch Doll rolled up and served in a vivid box. It’s a craze. 

Conversely, no one here has heard of fruit cake. I’m kinda grateful for that.

Besides fruit cake, what’s missing?

Black Friday is done in Peru. Kind of.  It’s not mentioned until a few days before, and then it immediately fizzles. It’s awkward because it doesn’t have the same context here that it does in the United States, and I felt embarrassed for the stores that tried to capitalize on it. There are no Shop Local Saturdays, Cyber Mondays, etc. The only holiday commercials I’ve seen aired have been for Panetón.

Ugly sweaters — duh, it’s nearly 80 degrees Fahrenheit outside. Starbucks holiday cups (not many Starbucks that I’ve noticed.) Neighborhoods lit up to be viewed from space. Carolers. Christmas markets.  Sugar cookies. Aisles and aisles of decorations. Wrapping paper. Mistletoe. Last minute gifts. War on Christmas rhetoric. Reason for the Season rhetoric. Chimneys. Salvation Army bell ringers. Endless boxes and flavors of candy canes — though after nearly two months, I finally spotted individual candy canes in a grocery store.  We didn’t buy any. 

Icicles. Mittens. Ice skating. Snow.  However, not snowflakes and snowmen — those decorations are well represented by people who’ve never seen the stuff in real life. Occasionally I’ll hear a sleigh bell on the radio — it’s hilarious in a country that has never seen a sleigh.

School plays, musicals, etc.  The Peruvian school year ends in December because it’s the start of their summer season.

Holiday greetings of any type. Buenos días is still the only thing I’ve heard. Arguments over holiday greetings.

How will we celebrate?

I’m not ashamed to say I’ve already taken advantage of the baby alpaca sweater sales at the high-end stores. 60% off you say? Of course I want a deal.

We hung up LED lights and pompoms last month.  Not for the holidays, mind you, but because we like LED lights and pompoms.  We’ll hang them up at all our stays.

In my former neighborhood of Albany Park, fireworks were key in celebrating any and all holidays. So to keep some continuity, I think Jan and I will venture up to the roof of our building to watch. A little spectacle won’t hurt us.

The next day, we’ll feast a bit. We found a tiny box of chocolate chip Panetón, so we’ll probably bust that open and stream something other than hockey (the NHL takes a four day break) on the Roku.  I’ll probably get a back-up treat like the far superior mil hojas de manjar to have, or maybe we’ll finish off the half-eaten chocolate bars and the bottle of Flor de Caña we’re not bringing back to the United States. 

We’ll take a walk along the beach. The day will be low-key and glorious.

Seasons Greetings.